Good-bye Algiers

Where did the past 16 months go? In February 2012, Douglas and I received the news that we were assigned to Algiers, Algeria in northern Africa. Everyone we told immediately recognized that it was a hardship post. I was excited and a bit nervous at the same time. I decided to call my good friend to vent but she didn’t answer. I then went to relieve some stress at the gym. Minutes into the workout my phone rang and it was her. I immediately got off the treadmill, walked outside to my car, sat down and bawled out crying on the phone. My optimistic view on the move was growing weary. I was so uncertain about the unknown. In that moment I didn’t know if I could handle all that Algiers would give me. But after that release and an uplifting talk I dried my eyes, wiped my nose, and put my game face back on. I let go of my fears and embraced the unknown. 16 months later, if I could talk to myself back then, I would say, “What is all the fuss about? You’re going to have an adventure!” And that it has been.

The level to which Douglas and I have enjoyed ourselves in Algiers is immeasurable. We have found delight in dining out at some delicious restaurants featuring cuisine from Algeria, Italy, Turkey, and India. We have had so much fun doing simple things, such as playing together in the house like teenagers, creating date nights, or exercising together around the compound. It has been wonderful to watch our marriage grow through every fun encounter and challenging experience. For the strengthened relationship I have with my husband; Algiers, I thank you.

Douglas and I have loved the community trips taken throughout the country helping to expand our knowledge of history and customs in Algeria. We have learned that The Casbah is not just the focus of a song, all of Africa is not scorching hot or swarming with bugs, and although Algiers is considered a danger post, we never felt endangered while here. For the education received; Algiers, I thank you.

We have also had a blast doing bigger things like traveling throughout Europe. I may have envisioned the simple ways to enjoy life with my husband before getting married, but never in my wildest dreams did I picture us visiting other countries together. In addition to Algeria we’ve lived it up in Aviano, Venice, Barcelona, Madrid, Frankfurt, and Lisbon. We’ve created adventures to last a lifetime and this is only the first half of our three year tour. For all these adventures in country and across the miles; Algiers, I thank you.

During our preparation in moving to Algiers, I expected to meet new people and build new friendships (which I have done), but I never anticipated walking away with another best friend. There is a woman here who has been by my side to share both the good and bad days; she has enhanced my life through her encouraging words, positive outlook on life, jovial spirit and down-to-earth personality. Her friendship has brought me enormous comfort. I thought at my age there was no such thing as making new best friends, but she has proven me wrong. For my new friend; Algiers, I thank you.

Before moving to Algiers I could cook several basic meals, but since being here I have learned to prepare foods that I never thought I had the ability to make. I even created my own turkey sausage recipe among other things. I hosted my first Thanksgiving and Christmas dinner and prepared countless meals for large groups. I’m even a good baker! I no longer have a desire to use box mixes for cakes and cookies or store bought icing because I can do it all from scratch! For my new culinary skills; Algiers, I thank you.

I decided to start a blog once I arrived. I was going to share my experiences with friends and family so they too could experience life overseas vicariously through me. However, I never expected to use my blog to share such detailed stories of my experiences. And I surely didn’t expect my blog to have such a large following of people either. It has been especially nice to see the impact my writing has on others as well. I thought I would have approximately 18 entries when I left Algiers; one for each month. This final entry will make fifty. For my new avenue of sharing information and positively influencing others through blogging; Algiers, I thank you.

To thrive in Algiers and learn the hidden lessons in each experience we had to put aside everything we knew as “normal.” We had to embrace a different lifestyle, and we especially had to check any possible negative or complaining attitudes at the airport. This allowed our experience to not only be enjoyable and enlightening, but life-changing as well.

I do not need confirmation from anyone else to know that I am leaving Algiers a different woman from when I arrived. I have rewritten my view on life and I am sure there are more rewrites to come. I have developed a new definition for the word hardship. I have rediscovered a new type of confidence from within that was previously hidden under comfort zones and safety nets. I have learned the difference between struggling due to lack of ability and opportunity versus struggling due to lack of initiative and effort. I have realized that just because an item is not sold in the store, does not mean the same product cannot be created at home. That statement goes deeper than groceries. I have embraced the fact that I am a tough cookie who will not crumble after life takes a few bites. I have begun to unveil one of my many purposes in life which is to positively impact the outlook others have on their own lives. I will remain forever grateful to the lessons and opportunities this country has given me. Because of you, Algiers, I am a better me.  For that I graciously thank you.

Merci Beaucoup! Au revoir, Alger!

The Blue Heart Journey isn’t over yet. Next stop….Vietnam. See you all there!

Ramadan

Ramadan is here. It began on Wednesday, 10 July 2013. This will be my second time experiencing Ramadan. We will not be here for its full duration since we are moving to Hanoi before it ends.  I have had a few Muslim friends in the past and watched them observe Ramadan, but living in a Muslim country where respecting the rules of Ramadan is highly encouraged and socially enforced amongst all Americans is extremely different. Even though I am not Muslim and do not participate in Ramadan, I am happy to have had the opportunity to learn more about the practice from local Algerians working at the embassy. An Algerian teacher at the embassy sat down with me and openly shared her expertise about Ramadan. She broke down all the dos and don’ts during this time, its purpose, importance, and impact on both Algerians and foreigners. I thought it would be helpful to share with others the detailed information I received about this highly anticipated practice for the Muslim community. Please understand that the following information is from the perspective of a local Algerian who has been a French Muslim her entire life and participated in Ramadan in Algeria for over 40 years. 
 

• The significance of Ramadan is to think about the less fortunate people who do not have or cannot afford to buy food throughout the year. One should have gratitude for all they have during the course of Ramadan.  

• Ramadan lasts for 30 days from sunrise to sunset every day.

• During Ramadan you must not consume food or drink from sunrise to sunset. If a person drinks anything during the fast, including water, then it does not count.

• It is mandatory for all Algerians to observe the rules of Ramadan even if they do not choose to participate in it. If police find you eating publicly you can be arrested. Many Muslims feel you will be punished by God if you do not abide by it.

• Approximately 50% of Algerians do not practice fasting during Ramadan.

• Ramadan changes every year according to the lunar sighting which typically occurs 10 days earlier than the previous year. Last year, Ramadan started on July 20^th and this year it started on July 10^th.

• At the beginning of Ramadan, in the middle of the night, scientist will look for the lunar sighting. If it is not there, Ramadan will not begin that day (for example the 9^th) and instead it will begin on the following day (July 10^th). If the lunar sighting has appeared then Ramadan will begin on that initial day (July 9^th). This night that determines the start of Ramadan is called “The Night of Doubt.”

• This year, Ramadan will end on August 8^th.

• People are much more charitable during Ramadan. It is comparable to Americans being more charitable during Thanksgiving or Christmas.

• There is great significance to the 27^th day of Ramadan. Some Muslims decide to begin reading the Koran on the 1^st day of Ramadan and then complete it by the 27^th day of Ramadan. On this day, according to the religion, the sky opens up at 2:00 am or 3:00 am and those who possess the ability to see through the sky may have one wish that will come true. Typically no one except the scientists or saints can do this.

• Ramadan is a time of family gathering. Everyone will get together a few minutes before sunset and gather at each others' houses. For example, one family can invite others over to their home and those other people will not prepare any food in their home that day. It is similar to what Americans do for Thanksgiving or Christmas dinners. Cooking for Ramadan is similar to preparing an American holiday meal every night for 30 consecutive days, especially for the final day.

• Nightly meals during Ramadan are very detailed. You start with something sweet like a date or Turkish delight. This is said by the prophet to give blessings to your meal to start off Ramadan sweet. Then you must always begin with a warm soup to open up your digestive system. Afterwards people will have their main meals. All Algerians include a traditional dish called bourek, which are beef stuffed pastry rolls. You can prepare them a variety of ways. Another popular dish is lamb with sauce and dry fruit like plums, apricots and raisins. They will also consume salads, lots of bread, tea, and dessert.

• There are people who cannot afford to eat like this every night. A neighbor may offer to bring food to the home of those less fortunate. There is something comparable to the Red Cross, called “Croissant Rouge,” which is an organization that is set up to allow those who do not have food to come inside the food shelters and eat for free. There are many organizations like this throughout the country, but they are usually active only during Ramadan. Again, it’s a time of charity.

• Some people give money to the charitable organizations. More often than not, food is given because people sometimes steal the money, but will not steal the food.

• There is a particular bread that is very expensive and typically only sold during Ramadan. Most cannot afford it.

• Iftar is a religious observance of Ramadan and typically shared as a community. People gather to break their fast together. A huge meal consisting of many different dishes is prepared. Iftar is held on the final day of Ramadan.

• Grocery stores and markets remain open during the day. However, all restaurants are closed until a few minutes before sunset or some remain closed during the entire month of Ramadan.  

• In Algiers the cost of food rises during Ramadan. The increase usually starts a week prior. The law says that prices have to be kept the same or go down. However, there are inspections done every year around this time and many stores raise their prices. The inspector will write the employer a fine if that is the case. But the employer will not pay it because they will give the inspector free or reduced cost food instead and the inspector will then ignore the illegal action of the owner raising prices. It is as corrupt as it sounds. However, in France the cost of food is lowered during Ramadan to bring the people together. Different country, different rules.

• People usually visit the mosque to pray. Unfortunately, nowadays may people just go there to gossip or chat rather than pray.

• Throughout the streets you will see Ramadan tents put up. This is an Oriental-style tent called a kheima with colorful designs and conveys a club-type atmosphere. Inside people sit on mattresses and pillows spread out behind a table where they drink tea, eat, and smoke a shisha as they listen to music and dance. Sometimes there is even live music. Many youngsters will spend the night out going from one kheima to the next. (A shisha is referred to as an Egyptian Hookah which is used for vaporizing and smoking flavored tobacco.)

• The streets are typically empty in the early morning, which is completely opposite than most mornings in Algiers. Once the sun sets, the streets become very crowded between the hours of approximately 8:15 and 9:30 pm.  

• In the winter Ramadan is easier because it gets dark around 5:30 pm and the sun rises sometime around 6:00 am. The nights are longer and the days are shorter. People do not go as long without food or drink as they would in the summer months. Ramadan changes its occurrence so much because God wants the people to experience Ramadan during all times of year. When Ramadan is more difficult it is easier for those to understand what other people who go without all year feel like.

• In July the days are long and the nights are short. People will likely not eat until after 8:00pm and will have to stop around 3:30 or 4:00 am.

• In Paris, Muslims practicing Ramadan do not eat until 11:00 pm because the sun sets so late there.

• There are exceptions to eating during Ramadan. Someone can eat if they are traveling. If a woman or girl is on her period, she must eat during this time, but only in private. However, they are in debt and those days must be repaid. They can choose any day or any month to repay those days by fasting, as long as it is done before Ramadan begins the following year.  It is rare now to find many women who repay the days of fasting once they are off their period.

• If someone has diabetes, heart problems, or is sick then they can eat and do not have to repay any days.

• For girls who have not started their periods yet or boys who have not gone through puberty, they do not have to fast. Once they hit puberty the parents slowly ease them into learning how to fast during Ramadan. The first time a child starts to fast, the mother will throw the child a big party and invite many family and friends over to celebrate. They will also bring many gifts to the child. This has no religious consideration. It is merely for traditional purposes.

• Working hours are adjusted during Ramadan. This gives people time to shop for food to prepare that night.  It also helps people who are tired from lack of food or who have stayed up late eating or went to bed so late that it is hard to wake up early. Class sessions decrease from one hour to 45 minutes for all teachers.

• Swimming during Ramadan is not allowed because water may enter the mouth or nose and cause accidental consumption.  

• When it’s extremely hot outside, people are allowed to pour water into their mouths and swish it around like mouthwash and then spit it out. The water must not be swallowed.

•  To say “Have a nice Ramadan” you say, “Saha Ramadan” or "Mabrouk Ramadan." 

To all those observing this holy month, "Mabrouk Ramadan."