Blue Heart Journey: Alms Giving Ceremony: Luang Prabang, Laos

Douglas was thoroughly excited about sleeping in every day during our time in Laos. Who wouldn’t be? After all, it was a vacation! Before leaving Hanoi, I told Douglas about a practice in Luang Prabang called morning alms giving. Visitors go here to watch the monks receive their food for the day. Without having done specific research on the ceremony, I informed Douglas that it was a sacred ritual for monks and would be a good cultural experience for us. He seemed interested and asked what time it began. I hesitated a bit because I knew what his immediate reaction would be when he heard the answer – 6 am. I had hoped that he would mistake am for pm for some reason. Douglas’ entire demeanor changed at the thought of intentionally opening his eyes that early. He said, “So let me get this straight…you want me to wake up before 6 to get out of bed and get dressed to go see monks eat food?!” Sarcastically I replied, “Actually, they will not be eating…we will only watch them receive their food.” At this point, the possibility of hearing the word yes was about as thin as his patience. “So I am supposed to watch them receive food that they may not even eat?! Babe, I don’t want to get up to feed myself at that hour, let alone watch someone else get food!” This conversation is not going so well, I thought. “Uh, does this mean you don’t want to go?” The expression on Douglas’ face gave me my answer as he turned and walked away, peace sign in the air. Well, it was worth a shot.

Throughout our trip in Luang Prabang, Douglas must have been pondering the idea of going with me to see the morning alms. I assume he thought I may have felt bad that we were not doing this together. I was actually fine with him not going because I already knew he was not a morning person. But the night before I was scheduled to attend the ceremony, Douglas said the sweetest thing to me: “Babe, do I have to go?” I smiled and chuckled inside because I had no idea he was still entertaining my notion. I said, “No, you absolutely do not have to go. You should enjoy your sleep, and I’ll take pictures.” I must say, it did make me feel pretty good to know that he gave it a second thought just because I asked. I love my husband.

Every morning at dawn, the Buddhist tradition called Tak Bat is practiced among the monks. Tak Bat is also referred to as the Alms Giving Ceremony. Hundreds of barefoot monks dressed in beautiful saffron-colored robes emerge from temples all around the city to collect their food for the day from local people. They walk the streets in a single file line, starting from oldest to youngest. The monks carry a large bowl with a steel lid in which food is placed as they walk by. Almsgivers, or the people giving them the food, line the sidewalks, kneeling down after removing their shoes and wait for the monks to pass by. The people then offer the monks items such as sticky rice, candy, bananas, and money. However, the monks do not keep all that is given to them. Along the sidewalks are large open baskets that the monks use to discreetly throw away any items that are not appropriate for them to keep. Many tourists purchase sticky rice from street vendors in order to take part in the ceremony. Monks, however, only receive a specific kind of rice. If the rice given to them is not the correct type or prepared improperly, they will throw these items away. Tourists are advised to be cautious of where they buy their rice. Several vendors are simply looking to make a profit.

Tak Bat is a sacred tradition that is done in silence. The monks and the almsgivers do not utter a word to one another. The tourists that view this ceremony have begun to diminish this practice. While tourists are welcomed to watch and take pictures, they are encouraged to keep in mind that this is a religious ceremony, not a cultural photo opportunity. Photography is not prohibited, but several tourists go directly in front of the monks snapping photos with flash. This behavior disrupts the monk’s ritual and interferes with their meditative state. Visitors are asked to keep a respectful distance between themselves and the monks.

Also, tourists are often inappropriately dressed in shorts, sleeveless tops or mid-drifts. It is respectful to keep your shoulders, stomach, and legs covered when viewing the Tak Bat. The expectations there are no different than the ones found when visiting a temple.

To help raise awareness and better educate tourists on proper behavior and practices when viewing or participating in the Alms Giving Ceremony, leaflets have been created describing the dos and don’ts during morning alms. They have been disbursed throughout the city and posted in popular venues frequented by tourists.

The hotel shuttle drove me to the site only three minutes away. I saw the first group of monks receive their Alms at 5:40 am and returned to the shuttle by 5:55 am. It was short and sweet. I am glad I witnessed this ancient Buddhist tradition. I am especially glad that I did so in a civil and reverent manner. Again, while this is a tourist attraction to which Lao people welcome visitors to view and photograph, it is first a religious ceremony.