Luang Prabang, Laos

Each time we travel, I create an itinerary for our trip a few weeks prior. I browse several sites researching the best things to do, recommended places to eat, and top sights to see. Often upon returning from a trip, I yearn for a day solely dedicated to recuperation from our journey. This long four-day weekend of respite was largely the opposite. The purpose of this trip was to relax and have fun. Between riding elephants, climbing forest trails, visiting waterfalls, night swimming and a spa visit at the hotel, I would say our purpose was fulfilled.

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After our return from a two-week trip to Seoul and Beijing at the end of April, we took full advantage of the opportunity to travel to the landlocked country of Laos at the end of May. The popular destination that can be considered the heart of Laotian culture is the charming city of Luang Prabang. Several people from the embassy have raved about this tiny town which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site west of Vietnam. Having spent four days there, we can attest to each favorable opinion shared about this city.

Although it is hot and humid in Hanoi, Luang Prabang made Hanoi’s weather feel like a delight. We went during the low season which meant high temperatures. It was scorching hot during the entire trip – as high as 114° F (51° C). We spent very little time walking the streets of the city center due to the heat. While this did not take away from our experience, we could not help but ponder what the city is like during the high season (fall and winter) when the temperatures are much cooler.  

As our plane descended over Luang Prabang, we observed the gorgeous mountains encircling the city.

Luang Prabang sits on a peninsula formed by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. We took a stroll on the street parallel to the Mekong River after dinner most evenings. There are plenty of guest houses, boutique hotels, restaurants, and cafes throughout the streets. The town presents a perfect atmosphere for romantic evenings while dining outside. The two restaurants we frequented were both outdoors. Although it was incredibly hot, it did not take away from the charming environment.

Cafe Ban Vat Sene - A quaint eatery in the city center.

We ended the night in town with dessert at 7pm. Yes, we are early eaters.

I treated myself Neapolitan style. Homemade ice cream...yum!

We imagined that Lao cuisine would be good since most Southeast Asian countries have distinctive savory dishes. Laos did not disappoint. Two of the restaurants we frequently dined at were Coconut Garden and Tamarind Restaurant. Tamarind offers a cooking class that is very popular according to TripAdvisor, but we were not interested in being chefs this trip. Both restaurants offered an extensive menu of authentic Lao cuisine. There was not one dish from either restaurant that we wouldn’t order again. Tamarind’s menu kindly provided a plethora of information about Lao culture. We learned Lao people never use a knife, only a fork and spoon. They eat all foods with the spoon and use the fork as a knife to scrape food onto the spoon. We gave it a try the native way but cannot say that we adapted well to the awkwardness of eating a chicken dish with a spoon. Also, we learned that sticky rice is eaten using your fingers. Our eyebrows rose at the thought of picking up rice with our hands. That goes against everything we know as right! Eventually, Douglas and I attempted the traditional way of eating the rice. Since the rice was tightly stuck together, using a spoon or fork made it challenging to pick up the rice.  Subsequently, our fingers were the best tool, as suggested in the menu book. Overall, both restaurants were delightful. Even with so many delicious eateries in Luang Prabang, we couldn’t help but return to Tamarind and Coconut Garden. Every savory dish satisfied our bellies.

Tamarind Restaurant - first dining stop

Fresh pineapple and ginger juice. They didn't add syrup - and didn't have to. It was so refreshing in the heat!

Vegetables with jeow dipping sauce. It was so good we ordered another plate.

Buffalo salad with super hot chilies - Douglas' meal. I am not an explorer when it comes to meats. I stick to the basics!

Lemongrass stuffed with chicken served with peanut sauce

Herbed fish steamed in banana leaf served with sticky rice.

We signed the Tamarind guestbook.

Coconut Garden

This soup containing chicken, veggies, and flavored broth is some of the best soup we have ever eaten.

Vegetarian spring rolls with curry dipping sauce. This was our favorite dish!

Stir-fried buffalo and vegetables served with rice

Chicken fried rice with vegetables. This is by far the best fried rice we have ever eaten. I wish I could recreate it!

For 2 appetizers, 2 entrees, and 3 drinks (including an alcoholic beverage) our bill was $23.19. We love Asia!!!

If only I had the money to hire one of the chefs from both restaurants to become our personal chefs....a girl can dream.

Lao currency is called Laotian kip. There were numerous money exchange booths throughout the streets in the city center. In spite of the general kindness and sincerity shown from Lao people, the merchant at the booth intentionally gave us the wrong amount of kip in exchange for our US dollars – twice! Thankfully, Douglas caught them both times. The woman gave him the remainder of our money, not pleased with his realization. Moments before this discovery a gentleman passed by and told us to count our money twice because they cheated him too. It only takes one bad person or experience to set the impression of an entire town, but we did not let that experience alter our thoughts. Luang Prabang is still a recommended place to visit.  You just have to be vigilant when exchanging money.
 

This place takes cards as well! Please!

Our main sources of transportation were the shuttle provided by the hotel and tuk-tuks. The tuk-tuks in Luang Prabang looked like something one may find on a farm. They are an inexpensive mode of transportation. The average cost to get from the city center to our hotel on the hillside was $3. However, I do recommend using a vehicle when traveling longer distances because tuk-tuks can become quite uncomfortable on extended journeys.

                                                                                                                    

Most Asian countries are known for their day and/or night markets. The night market in Luang Prabang is located on the main tourist street Sisavangvong Road and opens every day from 5:30 – 10:00pm. Red and blue canopies covering most of the vendors make the location unmistakable. We bought a few items but not much in comparison to our purchases at markets in other countries.

Check out the price. 10,000 kip equals $1.24, and the beer is the same price. A backpacker's heaven!

It must have been good from all the customers we saw at the table. It cost more than $1.24 just to buy one of those foil pans in the states. The things we see overseas!

Because of its simplicity, Luang Prabang was a retreat from the perpetual hustle and bustle in Hanoi. This city is not for someone seeking a booming night life, a shopper’s paradise, or a buzzing atmosphere. It will be most enjoyed by those individuals looking to get away from the noise and busyness found in their current surroundings. This city caters to those who want a peaceful and authentic cultural experience. I believe it should be a top tourist destination for any avid travelers throughout Southeast Asia.